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Q1 How did you get into jewelry design?
Pretty much by accident. I never used to wear jewelry as I don't really gravitate toward delicate pieces and precious metals, so I never really felt inspired by the jewelry I saw. Then I saw this necklace in a magazine and I thought how I would like if it used different metals, had different gems, etc. etc. So I went out to wander around the Garment District (in Manhattan) to find the pieces to make my version of this necklace. Three or so hours later, I had found completely different components and was developing an idead for something completely different and original. I was so inspired by the possibilities coming out of the city that day and GEMMA REDUX was born.
Q2 What do you offer to consumers different than others?
My prospective. And a desire to push my designs forward. If nothing else, the GEMMA REDUX customer can be sure she will always get something new. |
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Q3 Could you explain your personal style for your design?
I like pieces that feel industrial but not overly modern. I use steel chains but they are not the overly-polished modern looking steel chains; they are rawly industrial to the point of having an organic feel. I suppose I aim for my pieces not to fit any standard mold of what jewelry is - not modern, not delicate, not sophisticated, not pretty.
Q4 What is your business motto mantra?
Excess and Contrast. GEMMA REDUX pieces are substantial - they incorporate big chains and lots of them - but they also mix in delicate elements such as feathers, ribbons and gems. So GEMMA REDUX pieces make a statement in two ways - excess and contrast, not for the timid.
Q5 What do you see people wearing on the streets that you think is not tasteful?
An excess of skin. Even on amazing beautiful girls, too much skin just looks contrived. |
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Q9 What advice can you give to other independent designers that want to do the same?
Try not to second guess your talents. I am a self-taught designer so I know how it feels through all the steps from the very beginning. You just have to trust that you have something interesting to bring to the table and the rest will work itself out. And don't ever compromise your vision. People will always give you unsolicited advice and its helpful to process it and reflect on it, but your designs are yours alone. If you give that up, you give up what makes you different from anyone else. Don't compromise on this.
Q10 Would you like to add anything for your Japanese fans?
I live and work in New York and I love this city, but even New Yorkers will admit that Japanese fashionistas are always ahead of the trends. To be considered a forward-thinking designer to Japanese girls is amazing. And I'm hoping that the more Japanese fans GEMMA REDUX gets, the more excuses I will have to come visit. |
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"Contrast and excess" is the way Rachel Dooley describes her line GEMMA REDUX. "I like the contrast of industrial metals and high end jewelry, of thick chains and delicate natural stones, and the excess of massive pieces with too many stones, too massive on the neck or too long on the body. I want to design pieces that stand out on any outfit - small, delicate pieces just don't appeal to me from a design aspect." GEMMA REDUX pieces are never precious - the metals are generally not precious but rather industrial, and the stones are rough or intense and cold. Rachel likens it to "glamorous concrete" - intentionally tough designs made for tough girls. While studying for the New York Bar Exam, Rachel made her first mixed metal necklace from vintage and industrial materials and GEMMA REDUX was born. Within months, GEMMA REDUX designs were showing up in publications such as InStyle, Lucky, Cosmo, Glamour and Zink Magazines and featured on the star of the fashion-forward show Gossip Girl.
"Creative design has always been like a mix of yoga and religion to me, keeping my grounded and outward-thinking, and GEMMA REDUX is like air for me because I feel like I need it in my life. The other technical and intellectual ventures in my life have contributed to the depth of my designs" Rachel explains, "it is this balance and contrast that makes the designs a success, in my opinion." |
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Q6 Do you have any current fashion obsessions?
Current and always: ornate headbands. How easy it is to feel pulled together (and fix nasty hair) with an amazing headband. I'm working on a collection for GEMMA REDUX at the moment with chains, ribbons and feathers. Otherwise, I'm obsessed with the Vena Cava collection. They are so talented and make sure beautiful clothes.
Q7 Who is your average customer and what are they like? How do they find you?
She's looking for something different and bored with what she's sees every day. She appreciates fashion as art and is not hung up on labels or strictly following trends and seasons. She takes fashion personally and really follows her heart and buys what she loves. And she finds GEMMA REDUX through high-fashion magazine press, blogs, or because her friend is wearing one (or because she's my friend). |
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Q8 What are you working on right now?
The headbands is one project. And I am working on an small but amazing editorial collection for Spring, which is angelic-themed (creams and whites, feathers) and in my opinion is... sick, just sick. I am so happy with it so far. |
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